Cheap Monday racerback - Pacman Havaianas
I'll be honest: my conception of surfing is infinitely more exciting than my experience of it. Like all good things, the rewards of surfing don't come without preliminary bouts of misery. My first time in the open water was all rough dumps, bruised feet and saltwater up the nose. Frankly, I have a long way to go, and getting out on one of the best surfing days of the year wasn't a good decision for a beginner. But I tried, oh how I tried. I'll try again on a day when the waves aren't as tall as I am. But in the mean time, I'll stick to watching from the rocks.
Photos by Danae Leslie